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Overview
Route Description
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French Connection

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Boulder
Sport
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Big Wall
Alpine
Ice
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FA:
D. Trousseau
Peter de Tolly
Mike Scott
Andy Wood
1984
FFA:
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Short Description

1. 12m '17': The steep crack is difficult, the rock rough and sandy in places. The top section widens and overhangs.

2. 15m '17': Behind the ledge, a smooth wall leads to a dassie traverse, which Cobblestones takes to the cave. Above this traverse, step onto the face left of Holy Mackerel. A few small, but handy prongs are useful for draping slings on, prior to an awkward move up to a finger rail, which improves towards the left. Traverse left until able to grasp some flakes, edges and goosenecks near the corner. Climb these to the ledge.

3.   12m '19': This pitch is furious fun, or a frustrating grunt depending on body size. On the left is a semi-circular platform below the ceiling, with a thin crack splitting it. Crouch awkwardly to reach above the lip and pull around this. Continue up the crack and climb to a grassy platform.

Walk to the foot of the second chimney, below the huge vertical white wall. A short, scruffy black rock section blocks the bottom.

4.   12m '14': This section of black water-worn runnels in sandy rock, is climbed using a layback edge to the overhang. Step left onto a bushy platform in a gully. Climb a black groove to the ledge below the vague break up the white cliff. (The first half of this pitch is shared with Gangplank.)

5.    20m '19': Start on some jug holds on the left end of the narrow ledge. Step up to a small overhang. A shallow handrail goes right and can be used to get into a groove leading up to a brown flake. Alternatively one can step up high and layaway to stand up to the handrail. Using the brown flake up above, step left onto the face. Two thin finger troughs and minute foot grips are all there is to edge across until a difficult reach up gets the fingers into a little black hole on the side of a flake. Use a higher flake, and a little pillar on the right, to climb the wall to the ledge.

6.   5m '12': Around the corner on the left, scramble up to the escape ledges.

The top gets sandy if not climbed regularly.

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Roulette
Double Jeopardy

Routes In The Area

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Magnetic Wall

6a

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Touch and go

6c

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Double Direct

6a

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Tweedle Dee & Tweedle Dum

6b

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Arms Race

6c

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Cableway Crag

5b

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Get In Touch

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Phone

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