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Africa Gullet

5c

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Boulder
Sport
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Big Wall
Alpine
Ice
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FA:
Jan Goedknegt
Keith Fletcher
1961
FFA:
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Short Description

1.    11m '16': Ascend the crack on the right of a smooth face. First move into the left-hand side of the cave and then up the crack using a chockstone. Continue up to a stance.

2.    26m '14': Climb 6m up the crack directly above to the ceiling. Traverse to the left for 10m to a corner on the skyline. Move up to a cubby-hole, continue Sm to a climber's friend bush.

Traverse below this and up to Upper Africa Ledge. Walk left along the ledge towards the Africa Crag nose.

3.    30m 16: Start up the crack (as for Africa Crag), then continue up to a small stance below a jammed block. The original pitch went up the bulging face just to the right of the Africa Crag chimney/crack (17). Only purists will do this.

4.  12m '16': Move to the right around the block, climb up to the triangular overhang, tra­verse to the left and mantelshelf on to a small stance. Use the slanting handrail above to swing onto the corner on the left where you can stand. A meter above there is another handrail. Use this to traverse left to a slanting foot-ramp, move up to another handrail. Continue left to a good stance around the corner (shared with Africa Crag).

5.    18m '17': Start 3m to the left below a bulging face. Climb 5m and mantelshelf on to a narrow stance. Climb up a meter or two and then balance left to the recess. Climb the 7m recess to a good stance. It is also possible to start the pitch in the recess - proba­bly less scary!

There is a final pitch. This is normally avoided by using the last pitch of Africa Crag.

Direct, sustained climbing with a heart stopping, pivoting block in an unexpected place.

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Roulette
Double Jeopardy

Routes In The Area

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Africa Crag

4a

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Oddshouters Outing

6b+

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Atlantic Crag

6a

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African Lunch

6c

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Synapse

7b

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Africa Arete

7a

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